This is one of my foolish annual exercises. I call it providing information on shoveling snow, from buying shovels to rearranging your snowfall without breaking your back or giving you a heart attack.
Foolish because most people in this area wait until 10 minutes before snow is predicted and then jam the home centers and hardware stores looking for a shovel to replace the one buried in one of the many piles of conspicuous consumption in the garage.
OK, the topic's not really annual. I haven't done this since 2006, by popular demand.
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For the few of you who crave this advice, however, here goes:
Need to know. What's comfortable for you. If the shovel you now own seemed heavy the last time you cleared six inches from the sidewalk, head to the store for a new one. You're a year older, after all, and these things don't get easier with age. At the store, check whether the shaft is long enough for you to shovel while standing straight. The shaft can be made of metal or wood, but be sure the handle is D-shaped, so it can be grabbed and held easily, for longer periods, and can help leverage the load and be used to apply force for pushing snow or scraping ice.
Material world. You want even wet snow to slide off the shovel, so you may want to buy a metal one with a Teflon or enamel coating. Experts recommend metal (aluminum, usually) over plastic because metal tends to last longer and can support heavier loads of snow. Metal edges can dig down to the pavement and be used to scrape frozen meltwater from sidewalk or driveway. (But don't use a shovel to chop thick ice. That's what ice scrapers are for.) Actually, spraying the blade with vegetable oil or WD-40 helps the wet snow slide off a bit better.
Operating manual. Most shovel blades range between 14 inches and 18 inches wide; blade width determines how many passes you'll have to make to clean off the walk. Since most shovelers remove snow along the width of a sidewalk rather than the length, an 18-inch-wide blade will make shorter work of the job. Then again, it's easier to lift with a 14-inch blade.
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Some shovels are actually pushers, which require little or no lifting. One end of the blade is curved in the same manner as a snowplow, so that snow is pushed to the side. Some pushers come on wheels; unfortunately, the wheels don't come with chains in case you get stuck.
What will it cost? Shovels run from $25 to $60, with plastic blades the least expensive and least durable. You might want to throw in a pair of work gloves, too, to reduce wear and tear on your hands and keep them warm. (You can find dozens of styles at Home Depot, Lowe's, and other stores for $10 to $35.)
Quality control. Shovels require a bit of maintenance, especially after they've been used frequently. The bolts that attach the blade to the shaft often work themselves loose, but constant retightening can strip them. Eventually, they will need to be replaced. And the blade edge can get banged up and bent, especially if it is used as a chopper. You can hammer the blade back into usefulness, and then sand the edge sharp for ice scraping, not chopping.
An ounce of prevention. Shoveling snow is pretty strenuous exercise, not unlike running. Be sure you're dressed properly, in layers, so you can remove one to prevent overheating. Wear boots or shoes with rubber soles, so you're less likely to slip.
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Both the cold and the actual work involved in shoveling put undue stress on the heart. So it's a good idea to warm up first, by walking around and stretching the muscles in your arms and legs. And don't rush to get the job done. Lift small loads of snow and take frequent breaks while you work, even going inside to get warm. If you feel pain, stop.
To avoid back injuries, the trick is to lift as much with your legs as with your lower back. When you throw the snow away from the walk, move your feet instead of rotating your whole torso. Back troubles (disk injuries or inflamed ligaments) result because the spine is not meant to have weight put on it, then rotated.
