FARGO — October is National Pork Month, which gives me another reason to sing the praises of this flavorful meat known as the “other white meat.”
Lean pork is part of our weekly menu regimen, and this category includes cuts that are low in calories and fat, like tenderloin, loin chops, top loin and sirloin roasts. Cooking lean cuts of pork to the proper temperature is important not just for safe eating, but also to ensure that the meat is tender, juicy and full of flavor.
My mother is an excellent cook, but, when I was growing up, my perception of pork was that it was tough, dry and chewy. And that’s not her fault. In the past, a disease called trichinosis could be acquired by eating pork that was cooked below the guidelines of 160 degrees, which gave people cause to cook their cuts of pork loin well beyond that number to remove any threat. However, thanks to improvements in the way that pigs are raised today, trichinosis is no longer a threat when eating domesticated pork. As a result, in 2011 the U.S. Department of Agriculture decided to bring the pink back to pork by lowering the recommended minimum temperature to 145 degrees.
I recently did a taste comparison where I cooked a pair of pork loin chops using the old and new standards. The pork chop that was cooked to 160 degrees was curled up on its sides, and the inside was completely white with few juices spilling out. However, the chop that was cooked to 145 degrees was plump and tender on the outside, and when I cut into its slightly pink center, the juices came dripping forth. A meat thermometer will help to ensure that the desired temperature is achieved.
Today’s Crispy Pork Tenderloin Sandwich features a whole pork tenderloin carved into four to six pieces, which are then pounded with a meat mallet into thin cutlets just a bit thicker than a quarter of an inch. Each cutlet is dredged in flour, egg wash and a mixture of crispy panko breadcrumbs, freshly grated Parmesan cheese, fresh rosemary and salt and pepper.
Next, I pan-fry the breaded cutlets in canola oil until golden brown and crispy on each side. Canola oil has a high tolerance to heat and little to no flavor or odor, so that it won’t affect the taste of the main ingredient.
I serve the crispy pork cutlets in onion rolls from a local supermarket’s bakery with a tangy Mustard Aioli and a Sweet and Sour Slaw made with capers, red onion, cabbage, stone-ground mustard and cornichons (or dill pickles). These flavors pair well with the pork tenderloin to create a sandwich that is crispy, tender and full of flavor.
To all the pig farmers in our region and throughout the nation, thank you for all you do to help us put beautiful, nutritious and delicious food on our table. Happy National Pork Month!
Crispy Pork Tenderloin Sandwich
Makes: 4 to 6 sandwiches
1 whole pork tenderloin, sliced into 4-6 pieces
1½ cups all-purpose flour
2 eggs, beaten with 2 tablespoons milk or water
2 to 3 cups panko breadcrumbs
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
Canola oil for frying
Mustard Aioli (see other recipe)
Sweet and Sour Slaw (see other recipe)
Place a piece of pork tenderloin between a layer of plastic wrap. Use a meat mallet to pound the pork into a cutlet about, or just above, ¼-inch thick. Repeat for each piece of tenderloin.
Place three shallow dishes (like pie pans) next to each other to create a dredging station. Fill one with the flour. In the second dish, beat the eggs and milk together until foamy and well combined. In the third dish, use a fork to combine the breadcrumbs, Parmesan cheese, rosemary, salt and pepper.
Dredge each cutlet first in flour, shaking off the excess, then dip in the egg wash, allowing any excess to drip off into the dish. Next, dredge each cutlet in the breadcrumb mixture, using your hands to pack the crumbs tightly to completely cover each cutlet.
In a medium pan, heat the canola oil over high heat. Once hot, reduce to medium-high and fry 2 cutlets at a time until crispy and golden brown on 1 side, then flip and fry the other side, about 2-3 minutes per side. Transfer cutlets to a plate lined with paper towels to drain the oil.
To assemble the sandwiches, smear a generous helping of Mustard Aioli on the bottom of each roll, add the crispy pork tenderloin cutlet and top with a heaping of Sweet and Sour Slaw. Cover with the top of the roll and enjoy.
1 cup good mayonnaise
2 tablespoons stone or coarse ground mustard
2 teaspoons white vinegar
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon garlic, minced
¼ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
Dash of hot sauce (Frank’s Red Hot, Tabasco or Sriracha, for example)
Place all the ingredients in a medium bowl and whisk vigorously for a minute or 2 until smooth and well combined. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Sweet and Sour Slaw
2 cups coleslaw mix (raw)
¼ cup capers
¼ cup cornichons, finely chopped (or your favorite style pickle)
¼ red onion, finely chopped
2 teaspoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 tablespoon stone or coarse ground mustard
1 teaspoon honey
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
In a medium bowl, use tongs to toss the ingredients until well combined. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired. Best when refrigerated for at least 1 hour before serving. May be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Recipe Time Capsule
This week in...
- 2018: Orange Roasted Root Vegetables
- 2017: Maple Glazed Pumpkin Cookies
- 2016: Italian Stuffed Peppers
- 2015: Pumpkin Spice Macaroon Cookies
- 2014: Homemade Croutons and Soup Garnishes
- 2013: Tailgating Italian Sausage and Peppers
“Home with the Lost Italian” is a weekly column written by Sarah Nasello featuring recipes by her husband, Tony Nasello. The couple owned Sarello’s in Moorhead and lives in Fargo with their son, Giovanni. Readers can reach them at firstname.lastname@example.org.