Stuff We Like: Revel in a rib-eye at the Hammond

• Rib-eye steak at Superior's Hammond Steakhouse

Rib-eye steak at Superior's Hammond Steakhouse Jana Hollingsworth / jhollingsworth@duluthnews.com

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• Hammond’s rib-eye steak

Go to the Hammond Steakhouse in Superior when you need a dose of nostalgia.

The decor reeks of 1975, the waitresses (I didn’t see a male server) are gruff but motherly, and diners enjoy after-dinner cigarettes tableside. Climbing those entry stairs last week, I felt like I was leaving 2009 chained to a bike rack outside while I entered a decade I wasn’t even born into.

To some, that’s a good thing. You need to be the right kind of person to enjoy the Hammond. The food is not amazing, but it can be solid. It’s not meant to dazzle the palate or ignite the senses. It’s a dinner tradition for a lot of families and a steak isn’t going to cost $40.

My favorite part of the Hammond is the dressing carousel. Three kinds are dropped off at your table when your salad arrives. I remember using all three as a kid at dinners there with my family. This time I chose a Caesar salad and regretted missing out on the dressing fun.

My 12-ounce rib-eye came medium rare, just as I asked, and it was marbled with glistening fat. If you’re going to go steak, go all the way, I’ve been told, and indulge in the artery-clog that is a good rib-eye. Mine had gorgeous grill marks and, at $20, it was a very good steak deal. I’m more of a 9-ounce eater, and left a quarter on my plate. My thick fries were a bit dull, but what was I thinking forgoing the hash browns?

On Wednesdays and Thursdays, the restaurant has a special that includes steak and lobster for $20. Not quite Vegas pricing, but certainly worth a single Andrew Jackson.

And so is the Hammond worth your time, when you need a couple of hours in a bygone era. Order a steak and a gimlet, and drink in the past.

Tags: stuff we like, restaurant reviews, life, food, restaurants, reviews, superior